This information moved hear just for sentimental historical information, all of the data is here, just not organize like it was.
I setup this page with pictures and other detailed information to help people learn about the third generation of Ford Expedition's and to share my personal experiences of owning one.
This page will be regularly updated with pictures and other information I gather such as service information, warranty issues, etc.
Last revised: Thursday, June 24, 2021 04:40 PM
05-06-15 added. Things the Ford dealer service repair department will over charge, double charge, and double bill for.
When you go pick up your vehicle, do not pay for the service first, go to the cashier, ask for the invoice first, go sit down, and go over the invoice line by line before you pay. Always compare your previous invoices for service with current ones, for both labor and parts, you may find significant differences between services, but should not. For example, a radiator flush may be 1 hour labor, then at another service 2 hours labor. You just may find that the amount of fluid they billed you for your radiator, transmission, differentials, transfer case, etc. increased from three quarts to five quarts. Always know the fluid quantities your vehicle takes, do not let them bill you for more fluid than your vehicle holds. Keep an eye on the shop supplies, hazardous waste removal, environmental fee charges.
Changing the rear differential fluid, in addition to the oil, they will sell you a limited slip oil additive, but it is not limited slip, and the manual states not to add anything.
Tire rotation, pay for new brakes, which requires the wheels to be pulled off, then they charge an additional $20 for Tire rotation, this is a double charge for the same work, they already have the wheels off.
BG Oil service, you pay for the brake fluid flush and BG brake fluid oil, they also bill you for the standard DOT 3 brake fluid, thus billing you for two different brake fluids, one of which they never used.
Always ask for your old parts back, applicable to only parts that are not under warranty, or have a core charge.
Use a magic marker and write a mark on items you want to make sure they replaced or moved, i.e. for tire rotation, mark your tires LF, RF, LR, RR. Put a mark on the oil filter.
Check your fluid levels before you leave the dealer, i.e. oil and engine coolant, lift the hood and make sure they did not leave an oily mess.
I own a 2008 Ford Expedition Limited 4x4 119” wheelbase. (the short model, Non-EL) Manufactured date 06-2007
I placed a special order, it is fully loaded, there are only five factory options that I did not get because I did not want them,
20" wheels $995. why, went with the 18" because of, replacement costs, better ride, use of snow chains/cables, 7 spoke and not 6. Note: whether you have the 17", 18" or 20" rims the overall outer diameter of each wheel stays the same at about 31", there is just more rubber between the rim and road with the 17". see more pro's and con's below.
Second row captain's chairs $795, why, wanted to seat three passengers.
Remote Start $385, why, I got a better aftermarket Viper system. details below
Trip Tunes $365. why, no need.
Axle gears 3.73 $75. why, better gas mileage with the higher 3.31 gears, details are below.
I went with the Non-EL because I did not want the extra 12" longer 131" wheelbase (easier U-turns, parking, etc.) and I did not need the extra 14.8" overall length, and lower mpg.
White Sand Tri-Coat Metallic ($365)
5.4L SOHC 3V V8 (Std)
"HP = 300 @ 5000
Torque = 365 @ 3750
3 valve single overhead cam
Block - Cast-iron
Heads = Aluminum
Intake = Plastic"
6-Speed Automatic O/D (Std)
Rear Axle Ratios:
Non -limited (Std)
"Higher 3.31 and not the lower 3.73"
18" Chrome Clad Aluminum Wheel ($0)
P255/70Rx18 All-Season OWL Tires
(Spare is 17" All-Season BSW) ($0)
Low Back Captain's Chairs, Perforated Leather Seating Surfaces with Floor Console, (3rd Row Vinyl) ($0)
2nd Row Seats:
2nd Row 3rd/Row Bench Seats ($0)
3rd Row Seats:
PowerFold™ 3rd Row Bench Seat (Std)
Navigation Radio, In-Dash On-Board DVD-Based Navigation System, AM/FM 6 Disc In-Dash CD Changer, (340 Watts Peak), Voice Activated, Control & Touch Screens, RDS Equipped, and MP3 Capability ($1995)
Video, Rear Seat Entertainment DVD w/Wireless Headphones 8" Drop Down Screen and Remote – MP3, CD-R, CD-R/W, DVD-R, DVD-R/W Capable ($1295)
Convenience Package (Std)
Heavy Duty Trailer Tow Package ($395)
"Class IV receiver
Install yourself relay kit."
Towing guide and Specs here
1st & 2nd Row Rubber Floormats ($55)
SIRIUS® Satellite Radio ($195)
Air Suspension Rear-Load Leveling w/Message Center ($485)
Air suspension operation and specifications here
Chrome Luggage Rack w/Black Crossbars ($115)
Daytime Running Lights ($45)
Power Liftgate ($495)
Climate Controlled, Heated and Cooled 6-Way Power Passenger Seats (Std)
Rear View Camera – Mirror Based ($455)
Running Boards, Power Deployable ($995)
Power Moonroof ($995)
Flat Molded Splash Guards ($85)
Added Kleen Wheels disk brake dust protectors
Dealers Order Guide 2008MY Marking Strategy and Mix Recommendations, the book the dealer orders from. 672kb PDF here
Manual Owner Guide 1st Printing 2008 here
2008 Fleet SSV modifiers guild
NOTE: Both front tires featheredge on the inside and outside edges at 35psi, seems OK at 38psi, still testing
Dealer Sales add-ons
First and foremost you might want to make sure the Dealer is selling you the “Ford” extended warranty and not some 3rd party one, that is if you want to be assured that is will be honored at all Ford Dealers, here are the plans I got
Ford Premium Care ESP (Extended Service Plan) 7 years 100k $0 deductible.
Ford pre-paid maintenance, I got the OPTIONAL scheduled maintenance plan 6 years or 100,000 miles $0 deductible. Because the scheduled maintenance is different on the 2008's then the 2007's I paid extra for the "Optional" plan so the oil gets changed every 5,000 and not 7,500 miles. Also the plan only covers Ford Synthetic-Blend oil so at the time of service I will pay about an extra $20 because I want Mobile-1 Full-Synthetic. By the way it holds 7 quarts.
Accessories I had installed by the dealer.
Viper model 5900 two-way remote start and alarm with up to a one mile range, added tilt sensor.
Mobile-Ease Hands Free System, works with Bluetooth enabled phones and integrates with the radio system
Moon roof deflector, required modifications, so I installed it. pictures and details below.
Bug shield, on hood
Side window deflectors, on all four windows
I had the front Grill and Headlamps changed, details below.
Stuff I added
Sylvania Silverstar headlights and fog lights, see below. (they last only about one year)
Kleen Wheels, keeps brake dust off wheels, see below.
Billet Grill, see below.
Rear cargo protector, under tool box.
Storage tool box, see below.
Two coats of Turtle Wax
Scotchgard, four cans to cover carpet and ceiling material
Rain-x on all exterior glass and in washer fluid reservoir.
Sun visor accessory to hold papers and stuff.
Sirius satellite radio lifetime subscription, see below.
Arm rest, see below.
Window suction-cup notepad holder.
Fire Extinguisher type ABC
300 watt power inverter.
Some differences between a 2007 and 2008 Expeditions are.
Oil change intervals went from every 5, 000 to 7,500 miles.
Power running boards option $995
Backup Camera option $455
Added chrome around radio knobs
Convenience Package made standard
Axle gears 3.73 verses 3.31 gears on non-el with trailer tow.
The 08 does not have this square plastic box that says "Triton" and has the Ford logo on top of the air intake, picture here
The 08 XLT bumpers now match the body color like the Limited's do, instead of being black.
Cost more :-)
Some differences between a 2008 and 2009 Expeditions are.
Available Rain Sensing Wipers
Flex Fuel Vehicle
Easy Fuel Capless Fuel Filler
Perimeter Alarm is standard across all arrays
S.O.S. Post Crash Alert System is standard on all arrays
Luggage Rack Crossbars Standard
Integrated Key Fob
Available 2nd Row Heated Seats
Available DVD Navigation with SIRIUS Travel Link Services (6 month free subscription)
XLT Convenience Package
Eddie Bauer Convenience Package
Luxury Value Package on Limited & King Ranch
Some differences between Non-EL and EL
non-EL 119 wheelbase. EL 131" wheelbase, an extra 12" longer. Extra 14.8" overall length
EL has more inside room
non-EL 4x2 model max tow 9,200lbs, EL is 9,000 with tow package. 4x4 model is less.
non-EL 28gal EL 33.5gal fuel tank
Some ways to distingue the different models
Non-EL and EL, on a Non-EL the rear doors wrap around the rear wheel well, on the EL it stops short of the wheel well
XLT 07 and 08, the bumpers and lower sides are black on a 07's and are colored matched on a 08's
XLT from a Limited, Limited's have color matched grill and smoked headlights
XLT from others models, No 20" rims or Power Running Boards.
The Eddie Bauer all have Pueblo Gold bumpers and lower sides
King Ranch, the color of the seats and the King Ranch Logo on center cap of chrome wheels
2007 was the first model year for the third generation of the Ford Expedition, for details visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Expedition
click on thumbnail view of pictures to see larger image.
I personally did not like the original grill on the Limited that was colored matched with the body color or the tinted smoked headlights, so I ordered a chrome gill and brighter headlights for a 07 XLT or Eddie Bauer model for under $600.
I had seen anther 07 Expedition before I ordered my 08 and it had a few miles on it, I saw there was a lot of damage to the A/C coil and radiator from rocks and other road debris, so I added this aftermarket Billet gill insert to help prevent damage to the Trans cooler, A/C coil, and Radiator. Carriage Works Polished Aluminum Billet Grill from upper grill 43652 lower bumper 43662 http://www.carriageworksinc.com under $250 delivered. The Grill is easy to install and only takes about 1 hour and all you need is a screwdriver. 43652 $159.95 is a four piece grill insert. 43662 $93.95 is a one piece bumper insert. From Auto Anything
P.S. I have the 07 / 08 tinted smoked headlights for sale at about half off list price, email me at William@Baumbach.com Sold March 2013.
I replaced both the headlights and fog lights with Sylvania Silverstar bulbs, I love them, much brighter and a whiter light, don’t forget to take a Phillips screwdriver and turn the adjusters counter-clockwise a few turns to adjust the headlights and clock-wise to adjust the fog lights up higher, I found the factory setting was set way too low. If you want to see a big difference be sure to replace both the headlights and fog lights. Silverstar Headlamp H13ST OEM #'s H13 / 9008 Silverstar Fog lamps 9145ST OEM #9145 it will cost less if you buy them in packs of two. p.s. Yes you will get a much shorter life expectancy from the brighter light bulbs then the less bright OEM’s. after all you are burring the candle and both ends so to speak,
Had to drill two holes to relocate the mounting brackets so the Ford moon roof deflector would fit with the satellite antenna. The Ford Accessories Catalog Says "not available on vehicles with Navigation System" but it has nothing to do with the navigation system, it's the satellite radio antenna that is in the way.
Folded down the third row seats and covered them up with this 4 draw storage tool box from American Van They are made of lightweight 113lbs diamond plated aluminum. You can store a lot of stuff in them, pull the draws out and they can be used as a workbench. cost about $750 delivered.
Under the tool box is a spill-proof cargo protector. There is cardboard behind the second row seat to protect it. 300 watt power inverter with the brown extension cord in the back right-hand corner. Jump-start with air compressor, an ABC Fire Extinguisher. An all aluminum drop-hitch (lightweight and has a chrome look).
It seems both the 07's and 08's do not get the hinges on the rear tailgate painted very well, you can see the primmer coat of paint, it might rust in a few years. Dealers response to the hinges not being painted, "we looked at the other Expeditions on the lot and they are not painted either" they also said "you have a five year warranty against rust" I say two wrongs do not make a right! and what about rust 6, 10 or 15 years from now!
Rearview backup camera is an available option on the 08's and not the 07's, tucked up nicely and well hidden above the license plate. It only work when the shifter is in reverse.
It is a small image in the rearview mirror only about 2.5 inches, I have seen a GM that has the image in the much larger about 8 inch navigation screen which I liked much better, easier to see. If I had a 07 I would be after one that would make use of the Navigation screen and not the rearview mirror
Deployable running boards available option on the 08's and not the 07's. I really like them, they deploy fast, there is not waiting to get in or out, and the Expedition has a since look when they are up.
18" wheels that are 7 spoke and not the 20" 6 spoke.
More about 20" rims and tires... opinions from others....
Bad performance in snow.
Greater potential for wheel damage if you hit curbs and pot holes
Slide in harsh turns.
Should not use snow chains/cables
Fewer tire options
Prone to flat spots
Cost more to replace? (this seems not to be true)
As of 09-08-07 example of tire costs
265/70SR17 Continental SUV Outlined White Letter $120-$150.00
255/70SR18 Pirelli Scorpion STR Outlined White Letter $120.00-$175
275/55HR20 Pirelli Scorpion STR Outlined White Letter $120.00-$155
07-04-08 I am not at all happy with the wet street traction of the Pirelli Scorpion STR tires, they hydroplane way too much and if you try to stop fast on a wet road the antilock brakes kick-in. At this time both Pirelli and Michelin only make one model tire in this size 255/70SR18 112S. The Pirelli Scorpion STR and the Michelin LTX A/S. and Michelin is only available in black sidewall, (no raised white letters) Even though my OEM Pirelli's are not even half worn-out at 25k miles I plan to put a set of Michelin's on as soon as I can. From day one I was never happy with the wet street or snow traction of the Pirelli's, on a dry street I am happy with the ride they offer.
To keep the disk brake dust off the wheels I got some Kleen Wheels model 2035 http://www.kleenwheels.com $36.95 per set from Auto Part Warehouse. I put them on the other day, easy install and perfect fit, the vents lined up behind each spoke of the rim so you do not see them. They have vent holes to help keep the brakes cool and are directional.
You can see the aluminum alloy rims are not really chrome, but rather have a "Chrome Clad" metal cover on them.
Note about the chrome wheels. "Chrome Clad" means chrome plated metal or plastic covers overtop of a standard metal steel or aluminum alloy rim, not much different than a hubcap, other than they are not removable like a hubcap, "Chrome Clad" covers are permanently attached. In this case the covers seem to be metal. 09-25-07 I did a little test, they are for sure covered with chrome metal and not plastic. I tested this by using a magnet and it stuck to the wheel, unlike the front chrome grill for example is chrome plastic and the magnet would not stick to it.
The 08's has some chrome around the radio knobs and the 07's do not.
Under the 4x4 selector you can see the Mobile-Ease I had installed. the first one stopped working with my cell phone by the second week, the Bluetooth would not sync, dealer replaced it, so far so good.
I believe the navigation and radio is made by Pioneer
You can make a backup copy of your Navigation DVD it does however have about 7.55GB of data and requires a Double Layer DVD, such as a DVD+R DL which will hold 8.5GB of data. As of 06-2007 the latest version is 6P. older version are the 4P and 5P NavTeq is expected to come out with an updated navigation disk about December 2007 and will cost about $150. Updated June 2008 version 7P is out. Software by ImgBurn http://www.imgburn.com can be used to make a backup copy. First create an Image of the DVD disk to your hard drive, then burn the image to a blank DVD+R DL disk. Make sure your CD / DVD burner supports Double Layer DVD's
Sirius satellite radio offers a lifetime subscription for $394.08 + tax, you only pay a onetime fee and never pay again for the life of the radio. you must call them on the phone to get this price, because the website says $499.99, so call them on the phone and they will tell you $399.99, then ask for other discount offers. a Subscription includes listening over the Internet.
Added an arm rest, it did not fit properly, its made to fit a GM, the door is too wide so I had to mount it reversed and glue it on. $20 http://www.roadrest.com it works great, glad I got it.
03-2008, I have replaced the Road-Rest armrest pictured above with a standard computer keyboard wrist rest. It is lower profile and allows grater flexibility in front to back position, I used a drill bit and by hand made a small hole in the bottom so that the door lock could come up, then I just used clear RTV silicon glue to hold it in place. cost about $20.
Right front brake. Note the upper control arm is rusted, they did not paint either the left or right one. I guess since you cannot see them with the wheel on Ford is just saving a few pennies.
Backup lights I added, they are just form the local auto parts store and work off a separate switch I installed under the dash.
Seems the trailer tong fits loosely in all receivers so I wrapped about two layers of Duct Tape around the tong and then put it in the receiver to keep it from rattling. I am sure I will need to redo this every once in awhile.
Switches and stuff under the drivers side dash. I installed the red switch for backup lights and the electric trailer brake control
Remote data port for the Viper remote start and alarm system, this is used to program the options with a Bitwriter. Then there is the combination Viper light and valet red button, the factory plug, and then the safety switch to turn off the Viper remote start.
Miles per gallon. Actual about 15 city/highway, 18 highway at 75-80mph. 20 highway at 65. I find the average mile per gallon reported by the message center is up to 2 miles per gallon higher than the actual miles per gallon. I took a long 1,000 mile road trip and anther tank of gas doing some local driving. I reset the trip meter and the message center average miles per gallon at each fill-up and ran it till the tank was near empty, and then I filled it up and divided the actual miles driven by the actual gallons of gas used. The actual miles per gallon was always less then reported by the message center by anywhere from 0.5 to 2 gallons per tank full of gas. 09-10-07 5k miles, the average miles per gallon reported by the message center seem to be darn close to accurate now. 09-07-07 after my 5k oil change and adding the grill insert there seems to be a drastic drop in MPG, from 15 down to about 12, I will be watching this, if I find this to be the case I will remove the gill insert and retest. 09-10-07 I tested MPG with and without the grill at highway speed and there was no difference. 09-24-07 50 Message Center Miles to Empty, I run it down to 0 and filled-up, it took 25.871 gallons and its a 28 gallon tank. 2 gallons left. 03-24-08 my average mpg over 21 tanks of gas from miles 11,857 through 17,793 during mostly winter driving is 14.754mpg
Gears 2008 4x4 Limited. I have the tow package BUT the gears are higher 3.31 than the 07 model lower gears 3.73.The lower 3.73 gears are an option now on the 08 4x4 Non-EL, I opted for the 3.31 gears for better mileage and hope the 6-speed trans will do the rest when towing. Note: you cannot get the 3.31 gears on EL's or SSV Fleet orders. Limiter Slip is only available on XLT EL 4x2.
Grinding noise and a bang. While driving about 5 to 10 mph take your foot off the gas and turn the ignition switch off to kill the engine and coast you hear a bag and gears grinding. It is a 08 Limited 4x4, while in normal 2wd, cannot tell if it is the front hubs, starter, or trans. I went to the dealer today and took a 07 for a test drive and it does NOT do it. I have not tested at higher speeds yet, I am afraid doing so will cause a lot of damage and or might lose control if a wheel should lock-up. Dealers response is, this is normal operation for Expeditions. I will test more later. 10-21-07, I have confirmed it is the front Hubs which are vacuum operated and required vacuum, to stay disengaged, when you turn the key off this causes the vacuum to stop and the Hubs then start to engage while moving that causes the grinding noise. This is normal operation. Coasting in neutral and or turning the ignition switch off while moving, here are some rare cases you might have the need to do one or both, cut-off fuel source in case of fire, through a fan belt, dropped a drive-shaft, re-start after a stall, electrical fire., etc. In this case I had turned off the ignition switch to power cycle the mobile-ease system that was malfunctioning, but found to do this you would also need to open a door because of the power-off delay option. I then wanted to know how vehicle would handle before one of the above incidents happens or you should run out of gas at high speeds, how the brakes and steering would function. We now know a loss of vacuum causes the front “Hubs” to grind gears badly and then engage.
100mph speed limit. Seems you have a lot of power to get to 100 Plus mph but as soon as you reach 100-105 a governor and something else kicks-in and kills all the power, so I guess you will never see the 125mph that the speedometer goes up to.
Door Chime. I like to park, open the doors and turn the radio on, (tailgate party) with the key in the accessory position all you hear is the warning chine going off non-stop reminding you that the key is still in the ignition. I took the dash apart to get at the chime hoping it could be un-plugged, but found the same chime is used to warn / alert you have other things, so here is what you can do. Open the driver’s door; on the door take a screwdriver, ball point pen, pencil, stick, or similar item and push the clamps in so it thinks the door is locked closed, No more chime! Just remember to pull on the door handle to open them again before you try to close the door. You will need to lightly close the door and pull the handle again to get them to open all the way.
Oil The oil from the factory has a dye in it that only shows up while looking at it with a black-light, they do this so any leaks can easily be found. They say the dye will not hurt anything, but in any case I change my oil to full synthetic at 1k miles even though the warranty did not require it until 7.5k miles on my 08. Note: I am using Full Synthetic and not the factory installed Synthetic-Blend, there is a big difference. Oil change intervals went from every 5, 000 on 07's to 7,500 miles on 08's. Since I purchased Ford's pre-paid maintenance that only pre-paid for Ford's Synthetic-Blend I plan to buy 5 quarts of Mobile 1 from places like Wall Mart when they put it on sale for about $20, then have the dealer supply the other two quarts at about $13 per quart, since the pre-paid maintenance plan pays the dealer about $27. for oil per oil change then this will cover the two quarts they sell me.
Grease, there are no grease "Zerk" fittings on the driveshaft's U-joints, axles, ball joints, control arms, etc. there is nothing to grease.
4x4 low and 1st gear. in 4 low it does not start out in 1st gear but rather 2nd, to get 1st in 4x4 low you must manually shift into 1st I realized this while on a boat ramp, unless you manually put it in 1st gear it would drift backwards. This is normal operation.
Air suspension. Will not work unless all doors are closed and running boards are up. This is normal operation.
Cigarette lighter and 12v power points. The lighter socket below the radio has a different designed socket then the other 12v power points and some types of charging adaptors can get stuck in the lighter socket. You have to pull so hard to remove then you will darn near pull the socket out of the console.
Head Lights and Wipers. If you have automatic lights and they are turned on in the automatic position, 10 seconds after you turn on the wipers the headlights come on, 30 seconds after you turn the wipers off the headlights go off.
I have looked into the so called "speed chip" it would not be a "chip" but rather a handheld computer you would connect and just re-program the Expedition's computer, the handheld unit can save the factory defaults so you can restore them back before you take it to the dealer for warranty work.
I talked to a local performance shop about this and they advised to replace the air intake system with a K&N and as an option do the exhaust system before and rather than re-programming the computer.
The implied increase in horsepower, fuel mileage, etc. verses the cost and factory warranties that might/would be voided and the fact I am very happy with the current horsepower and fuel mileage I have decided not to make any changes.
Note, it seems the gas engines get no ware the horsepower and fuel mileage increase as the Diesel engines do, I have heard great things about doing this with Diesels.
Recalls I have received
Here is a good recall lookup sites http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov and http://www.motorwatch.com/safety/~recalls.htm and http://www.consumeraffairs.com/recalls04/aaarecalls_auto.htm
Recall / TSB # 08S03 February 6, 2008. springs holding each interior side door handle in place may lose, resulting in the handles opening the door on a side impact crash. details here
2006-2007 E150 – E350; 2007 Expedition, Navigator with 5.4L Engines> Weak fuel rail cross-over hose develops cracks which leaks fuel and could cause an under hood fire.
Important 2007 Expedition recall on fuel rail assembly that could cause a fire
TSB Number: 08S02 Title: Recall - Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement
Lookup TSB's http://www.alldata.com/ or http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/tsbs/
Issues I am having, also see the Dealer Service Notes section below
The brakes pull to the left. 09-14-07 since about 5,500 miles the brakes have not pulled, now at about 6k miles they seem to be working noticeably better as well, the brakes are stronger.
Both front tires featheredge on the inside and outside edges at 35psi, seems OK at 38psi, still testing
A/C / heater blower has only cut off once in 5k miles, some 07's are having major issues with this cutting off and staying off.
09-6-1 April 6, 2009 AT - 6R75 Squawk Noise On Hard Downshifts, at about 40k miles my trans starting making this noise during down-shifting to for example pass a car. This is a two-day job to replace the friction plate.
Added 11-2010, 81k. The noise during downshifts returned at about 70k miles. at 75k the dealer said no problem found, i will push to get this fixed again closer to my end of warranty which is 100k.
2008's Known TSB's as of 01-08-09
08-12-9 JUN 08 Keyless Entry - Transmitter May Not Operate
08-10-3 MAY 08 ABS/TCS - TCL Lamp ON/DTC's C1277/C1278
08-9-1 MAY 08 A/C - Blower Intermittently Inop/Stuck On High
08-9-8 MAY 08 A/C - Whistle Noise When Changing Temperature Setting
08-7-6 APR 08 Ignition System, Spark Plug Removal Instructions
08-5-1 MAR 08 Audio System - Radio Won't Seek Sirius(R) Radio Channels
08-4-3 MAR 08 Emissions - MIL ON/DTC P0456 Set
08-4-2 MAR 08 Engine - Cold Start Drive Belt Whistle/Hoot Noise
08-4-13 MAR 08 Engine, A/T Controls - Tip-In Hesitation/Stop Bump
08-1-4 JAN 08 Body - Water Leak From Rear of Sunroof
07-26-3 DEC 07 A/C - Compressor Cuts Out in High Temperatures
07-24-8 DEC 07 Ignition/Fuel Systems - Misfire on Steady Cruise
07-22-4 NOV 07 A/C - Poor Seat Cooling Performance
07-22-3 NOV 07 Interior - Gap Between Headliner and Sunroof Panel
07-21-6 OCT 07 A/C - Climate Control Seats Inoperative
07-20-4 OCT 07 Body - Popping/Snapping Noise From Driver's Side Mirror
07-18-3 SEP 07 A/C - Compressor Failure
07-5-13 MAR 07 Battery - Discharges After Vehicle Storage
2007's Known TSB's as of 04-06-08
TSB Number: 07-25-6 Title: Brakes - ABS Lamp ON and or Normal Brake Operation
07-21-6 10/29/2007 A/C - Climate Control Seats Inoperative 2007-08
07-19-8 10/01/2007 Body - Wind Noise From The A-Pillar/Front Door Area
07-18-3 09/17/2007 A/C - Compressor Failure
07-18-5 09/17/2007 Electrical - Battery Drain/No Crank/Multiple DTC's
07-16-18 08/20/2007 Fuel System - MIL ON/DTC's P0455/P0456
07-15-5 08/06/2007 A/C, Interior - Poor Climate Control Seat Cooling
07-14-2 07/23/2007 Engine/A/T Controls - 2-1 Downshift Tip-In Hesitation
07-13-4 07/09/2007 Body - Wind Noise From Front Door B-Pillar Area
07-10-6 05/28/2007 Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC's P2107/P2110 Set
07-10-5 05/28/2007 Body - Front Door Window Scratched
07-10-13 05/28/2007 Wipers/Washers - Rear Wiper is Inoperative
07-8-11 04/30/2007 Engine Control - Harsh 1-2/2-1 Shifts/1-2 Shift Flare
07-7-4 04/16/2007 Instruments - Message Center Switches Inop/Other Errors
07-6-3 04/02/2007 A/T - 'Wrench Lamp' ON/Multiple DTC's Set In TCM
07-5-13 03/19/2007 Battery - Discharges After Vehicle Storage
07-5-5 03/19/2007 A/T - 2-3/4-5 Shift Flare/MIL ON/DTC's P07782/P0784
07-4-3 03/05/2007 Interior - Leather Wrapping On Steering Wheel Is Loose
07-4-5 03/05/2007 Tires/Wheels - Vibration While Driving
06-21-19 10/30/2006 A/C - Heater Core Electrolysis/Leakage
Oil 5W-20 7qt's
Oil Filter FL-820-S Fram PH2 Purolator L24651/PL24651 Mobile M1-210 K&N HP-2010, Ford filters are made by Purolator
Air Filter FA-1883 K&N 33-2385
Anti-Freeze Gold yellow-colored VC-7-B/WSS-M97B51-A1
Pulling other vehicles that are stuck
I have many years experience at pulling other stuck vehicles in both off-road and on road so here are my suggestions.
NEVER pull in reverse with your front tow hooks. The front tow hooks are there mainly for your vehicle to be pulled by anther when you get stuck, again NEVER use your front hooks to do any heavy pulling in reverse because the drivetrain is much weaker in reverse then it is in forward gears, By pulling in reverse you stand a good chance of braking axles, driveshaft’s, ring and pinions, etc. I know this from experience. Light pulling in reverse is OK, but ALWAYS do your heaving pulling and hard snatching in forward. If you really want to pull with the front of your vehicle then install a winch to the front bumper and do your pulling with that.
NEVER use chains or cables to do any heavy pulling or snatching, they will brake and cause damage to one or both vehicles and or cause personal injury, if you must use a chain or cable, tie large bath towels or rags to each end and one in the middle incase it brakes. Snatch Straps are by far the BEST to use, if they brake and or come loose there is less chance of damage or personal injury, they are light weight, easy to carrying around, and do not rust, etc. The Home Depot, etc. do not carry them, get them from a 4x4 store, and get one at least 3” if not 4” wide and about 30’ long. Make sure they are “Snatch Straps” and not tie-down and or plain tow straps there is a big difference. Using Snatch Straps greatly increase your pulling powering because you can get your speed up and the rubber band affect they have.
You could add some D-Rings or tow hooks to the rear frame but you stand a better chance of damaging your bumper. All I have ever used on the rear is the trailer hitch to pull with. I have bent a couple ball mounts over the years but only during extreme hard pulling. A Pintle hook or Lunette ring instead of a standard ball mount in your receiver would be easier to attach a Snatch Strap too. Tip: apply grease to the inside of the receiver so the ball mount does not rust allowing easy removal later.
I highly recommend you put a ball mount or other accessory in your receiver and leave it there 24x7 even if you never do any towing or pulling, many times over the years my ball has saved my vehicles from bumper and body damage when another vehicle rear-ends me and or if I back-in to something, the ball gets hit first and takes the brunt of the impact.
Dealer Service Notes:
Dealers response (assistant service manager) to the hinges not being painted, "we looked at the other Expeditions on the lot and they are not painted either" they also said "you have a five year warranty against rust" I say two wrongs do not make a right! and what about rust 6, 10 or 15 years from now!
Dealers response to the both front tires featheredging, "3psi will not make a difference" (assistant service manager) and "featheredging is normal" (mechanic)
First 5k service done at the dealer on 08-24-07.
When they rotated the tries they used the wrong socket on the lug nuts and messed them up, they should have used a deep-well and not a standard socket which bit into the lug nut halfway and damaged the chrome/stainless steal cover on them, also causing them to rust. The pictures above were taken after I took them off with a deep-well socket which straighten out some of the bent metal so they do not look as bad in the picture now has they first did.
They also did a front-end alignment and now the steering wheel is off center by about half inch to the right.
The oil change and tire pressure seems to have been done OK.
They also washed it and speared smears of grease down the passenger side.
Dealers response (assistant service manager) to the lug nuts being damaged, "you can't see them, and the lug nuts will get damaged every time you take them off", I will add pictures of the lug nuts here
More of the conversation with the assistant service manager, I said you might want to let the mechanic know he is using the wrong socket, he said, I am not going to tell the mechanic that he needs to use a special socket on Expeditions. I said I did not want my lug nuts further damaged at my 10k service and said if I needed to I could bring with me and provide the proper deep-well socket, he said Mr. Baumbach I assure you we have more sockets here they you will ever have. Anyhow you get the idea, this was not the best in customer service or satisfaction this day.
They plan to write this lug nut issue up as standard and normal dealer servicing procedure. 09-06-07
I ask you, if you owned the dealership would you want me telling all my friends that you messaged up my lug nuts and told me in so many words to go fly a kite, or tell them you did "the right thing" and replaced the damaged lug nuts. I was getting nowhere with the assistant service manager on this issues so I have taken it up a notch to the service manager on 09-06-07. Updated 09-07-07 the service manager has agreed to do the right thing and will replace the damaged lug nuts.
Dealers response (assistant service manager) to the steering wheel being off centered, "no problem found" I have also taken this to the service manager. Updated 09-07-07, the test drive with he service manger did not show the wheel being off-center, this still bothers be, I will follow though later, I am considering just paying them to straighten it.
I dropped it off on Monday afternoon and did not get it back until Friday, 3 full days and 1 day in half days to change oil, rotate tires, and front-end alignment. One cause of the delay was they did not have the oil in stock.
They knocked off the arm rest I glued to the drivers door, I re-glued it better this time
They smeared grease down the passenger side when they washed it. but hay, although not put on evenly the tire shine they used looked good.
They also did "no problem found" on the brakes pulling to the left issues, I could not get it to do it during a test drive, I will get back on this issue at a later time. 09-14-07 they seem not to be pulling any longer, and I now seem to have more braking power since about 5,500 miles.
I do not consider this to be an issue at this time 04-05-08 but if you have rear side windows that open, you can see the headliner. The 07-22-3 TSB "Interior - Gap Between Headliner and Sunroof Panel" is not for this but rather the sunroof.
A/C leaks water on passenger side floor. 11-2010 801k miles, this water leak issue still has not been fixed.
07-04-08 It was one year and 25,000 miles of ownership before I discovered the A/C leaking water. I might not have discovered this if it was not for the see-through clear floor mats that I recently installed. Since the floor mat is see-though I had noticed water condensation on the backside of the floor mat.
2007 and 2008 Ford Expedition have a design flaw which causes the A/C evaporator coil housing box to condensate and leak water on and under the passenger side floorboard carpet. The water will run down the firewall behind and under the carpet so it may not be noticed. This is caused by a lack of insulation.
The AC evaporator coil is located on the passenger side under and glove compartment box. To test for the water leak, take a paper towel and lay it out on the left side of the passenger side floor carpet, making sure you tuck and fold some of it up over and behind the carpet between the firewall. (The firewall is the metal wall that separates the passenger compartment from the engine compartment.) Now go for a drive with your A/C on for awhile, if the temperature and humidity are just right, it will start to condensate and drip and leak water.
This can cause mold, making the inside of the vehicle smell bad and have a musty odor, and ruin the carpet and carpet padding, and overtime rust the floorboard.
07-08-09 I emailed the information and pictures to my local Ford dealer, who in turn called Ford, who said they have had no reports of this issue and had no fix for it. Ford advised the dealer to apply insulation tape to the outside of the evaporator coil housing box. This is black colored tar looking stuff that comes in rolls about 2.5 inches wide that is in the dealer’s inventory.
When I get time I will drop it off for the dealer to do this, but I do not think the R-factor will be enough. I think for better insulation that a fiberglass on one side and aluminum on the other would have a much higher R-factor.
Since the dealer’s inventory is limited, I think I will stop by Home Depot and see what insulation tape they have with the highest R-Factor , because I know I am going to end up fixing this myself.
The R-factor determines the level of insulation provided by a substance, the higher the number the better.
07-14-08 A friend of mine purchased a 2008 Lincoln Navigator, I was telling her that her A/C might leak too, so I went to show her the A/C evaporator coil and where it might leak, and what a pleasant surprise I found. Lincoln Navigator's have a plastic cover with insulation, although it is called a "Hush Panel" the padding/insulation should most likely will solve my leaking problem. At the very least this plastic cover could be used to hold more or better insulation on my Expedition.
The numbers of the white sticker are: U228 Hush Panel 94405262 The numbers of the yellow sticker are U228 Hush Panel ALERT A12040644
What does the word "ALERT" on the yellow sticker mean?????
On 04-14-14 Jason from Ford emailed me the answer to my Alert Tag question, he says. "Generally an alert means that the part has changed or been modified vs. what was originally designed for the vehicle. It is a notice to the assembly plant. If production personnel should notice that the part is different, the alert serves as a notice that “the part has changed and the changed is authorized”. Jason
The Ford Lincoln Navigator part number for the insolated Hush Panel is 7L7Z-78046A24-A
07-31-08. I stopped by the Ford dealer today about getting the Ford Lincoln Navigator insulation Hush Panel part 7L7Z-78046A24-A to stop my A/ C leak. The dealer told me that Ford would not reimburse them (the dealer) for a Lincoln Navigator part to be installed on a Ford Expedition, and that I would have to pay for the part myself, which I did order today. The dealer said they would correspond with Ford and try to get me reimbursed. I will write a letter to Ford myself too.
I decided to take a closer look as to why so much more water was getting under the carpet than what was dripping on top of the carpet. Around the condensate drain that exits the passenger compartment it a black foam rubber gasket that soaks up water like a sponge. This gasket butts-up against the firewall and is what’s leaking most of the water under the carpet.
The insulation panel that I ordered will most likely stop the condensate from dripping on top of the carpet, but will not stop the drain from leaking behind and under the carpet.
01-08-09 37,??? miles the dealer replaced the A/C evaporator coil to fix my complaint about the air ducts making a whistling noise, the fins that the air passes through have a different design on the new evaporator coil, this did stop the air noise. The replacement kit included a new blower housing and a condensate pan with a longer drain, the installer told we it was about a 1/4" longer, I hope this also fixed by A/C condensate leak, I will not know until next summer. The replacement required the dash to be pulled apart, heater core to be removed, and the A/C recharged with refrigerant (big job). There is a TSB 08-9-8 MAY 08 A/C - Whistle Noise When Changing Temperature. Some 2007-2008 Expedition and Navigator vehicles built before 12/4/2007 may exhibit a whistle noise from the heater/air conditioning while changing temperature setting.
11-28-2010 I have reported to the dealer about four times now during my services that the A/C still leaks on the floor, and each time they tell me no problem found. I have even showed the manager all of the water on the floor at times before I left it for service, but will no problem found. I now have about 81k miles on it.
Repairs done under factory and extended warranty
Under 36k replaced back right passenger side motor for windows, it was very slow to roll up.
11-22-08 34,102 replaced back left tail light
30k mile service replaced both fog lights under warranty because of lens cracking.
Rear brakes are wearing faster then front. 01-08-09 46,246 Replaced A/C evaporator coil to stop whistling noise in air ducts, issue diagnosed at 35,269. Brakes when new are about 12mm the front are about 8mm and the rear are at 5mm. I was told after they wear out, they will replace them with a newer style pad.
02-2009 40k miles, motor driver side mirror, the LED, entry light needed to be replace, it burned out. All three wiper blades.
12-03-10 81,049 miles, replaced front brakes, worn-down to 2/32" inch, paid $86.30 extra to upgrade to OEM brakes. I am amazed the front brakes lasted to 80k. the rear lasted to only 46k. right now the rear brakes are down to 3/32" or 4/32" inch
Check out these Ford Expedition Forms, you can read what others are saying and share your comments at......
If you have any questions you can email me at William@Baumbach.com
Some information on this site is just my personal opinion and should by no means be used to deviate from the manufactures recommendations. There could also be errors and or typos. I am also not necessarily endorsing or recommending any particular product, service, or company.
04-2008 I have added a Auto Business Center, and organizer that site on the seat, http://www.autosportcatalog.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=1713 total cost 38.25
04-2008 Since I cannot find custom fit towing mirrors, I am using these door mount models http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?skunum=14887 total cost for two $128.32
04-2008 I have replaced my factory black rubber floor mats with custom fit clear mats with honeycomb pattern, they fit much better, they cover more of the carpet area for better protection of the factory floor carpet, http://www.autosportcatalog.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=3390 two fronts, and one piece second row, instead of the two pieces. The clear ones allow the color of the carpet to come though, and the inside is much brighter. Total cost $114.60
Drivers side, they cover much more area then the factory black rubber, including the factory carpet pads which I removed when I installed these.
Rear right side view, This is the one piece they offer, instead of the two piece they are not fully laying flat yet, as they arrived folded in the box, after they warm up and are in place for a few days they should lay flat. Again, they cover and protect much more then the factory carpet or rubber mats.
03-18-2008 I hit my first Deer, I will need to have the tire removed from the rim to get the hair out. The Deer hit both left side door, you can hardly tell, if you did not know to look for it, you would not see the damage, about $1,800.00
Here are pictures requested by viewers
June 2014 at 143,500 miles. The power steering cooler started leaking. NOTE: The air conditioning condenser coil and the power steering cooler are both one piece. The top two rows of the cooling coil are for the power steering cooling. The leak in in the very top left corner. Since this involves having to re-charge the A/C. If yours is not under warranty, it would be less costly to abandoned the use of the power steering cooler, and just add anther secondary coil just for the power steering cooler. The cost of a cooling coil should be under $40.
November 2014 at 149,657 miles. Dealer could not determine why the anti-skid traction control light comes on from time to time.
Sometime around 2013-2014 the right side exhaust manifold started to leak, I have not has this fixed yet, the manifold will need to be replaced, and depending on how many bolts break off, the cost will be $800-$1,200. Also, the drivers side running board which gets used the most, is starting to not fold-up all of the way, and is getting very slow in coming down or going up, I understand this will cost over $1k to replace the motor.
April 20015 at 157,402 miles. Needed to replace the rubber brake line hoses. For a long time I had soft spongy brakes, they seemed to have air in them, meaning after you pushed on the brakes the first time, then let up and pushed again, the pedal would be a lot firmer, and not go as far to the floor. Then recently I noticed that after braking, or from at a stop, when I released the brake pedal there was a very short delay before the brakes released, the brakes were sticking. The rubber brake lines were collapsing inside, acting like a one-way check valve, not allowing the brake fluid to return to the master cylinder, thus not releasing the pressure from the brake caliper pistons. I am sure the rubber brake hose collapsing also caused the brake pads not to wear even too. One way to check is the rubber brake lines are bad is to pump the brakes hard a few time, then crack the air bleeder, if the brake fluid comes out of the air bleed under pressure, then replace the brake hoses.
08-13-15 158,954 new tires Costco Michelin LTX M/S2 P255/70R18 112T 70k mile warranty $846.60. Old Michelin LTX A/S tires lasted 58,561 miles.